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class="sitemap">當(dāng)前位置：<a href="http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/">首頁</a> > <a href="http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/?cate=10">世界杯資訊</a> > 正文內(nèi)容 </div> <div class="zcjhvmr" id="sticky"> <div id="k0o1aof" class="content"> <div data-cateurl="http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/?cate=10" class="block"> <div id="2rcdrwr" class="post"> <h1>古希臘和古羅馬時期不同階級的人們?nèi)粘７検鞘裁礃拥模?/h1> <div id="jzhf1g6" class="info"> <span id="i6vt1yf" class="user"><a href="http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/?auth=1" rel="nofollow">杏彩體育</a></span><span id="uuvn2ep" class="date">2年前<span id="uhsnki6" class="datetime"> (2023-02-03)</span></span><span id="tj4xyza" class="cate"><a href="http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/?cate=10">世界杯資訊</a></span><span id="mzwk6ic" class="view">62</span> <div id="yo2afwy" class="ctrl"><a href="javascript:;" title="增加字號"></a><a href="javascript:;" title="減小字號"></a><a href="javascript:;" title="還原字號" class="hide"></a></div> </div> <div id="qu2d1y9" class="single viewall"> <p> <div style="text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><span style="color: green;"> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">服裝文化是古代世界日常生活史不可或缺的內(nèi)容，古羅馬人服裝的演變可以折射出羅馬社會分層與文化變遷的狀況。古羅馬人的服裝起初比較簡單，在與意大利北部<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">伊特魯里亞人</a></span> </p><p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">和南部希臘人的接觸以及對外擴張的過程中，其服裝逐漸從簡單到復(fù)雜，穿著搭配也越來越講究，基本可以歸納為托加（toga）、突尼卡（tunica）、斯托拉（stola）、帕拉（palla）、右肩系斗篷（lacerna）、帶帽大氅（paenula）等幾類樣式。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">托加是自由民出身的羅馬男性的主要服裝，也被稱作羅馬人的民族服裝。古羅馬詩人維吉爾在《<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">埃涅阿斯紀(jì)</a></span>》中寫道：“羅馬人是穿托加的民族?！蓖屑幼钤缈赡艹霈F(xiàn)于<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">王政時代</a></span> </p><p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">，通常用一大塊羊毛織物做成，遮蓋著從肩膀到腳的這部分身體。起初，古羅馬的男女老少都穿托加。到共和后期，除了妓女會穿表示其職業(yè)的粗毛料深色托加外，只有男性公民才可以穿托加，因而托加成了男性公民的典型服裝。到帝國早期，托加變得肥大而笨重，穿法也日益復(fù)雜，出現(xiàn)了褶皺和凸飾。此時的托加逐漸改變其作為人們?nèi)粘Ｒ轮墓δ?，日益成為禮儀性的服裝，成為上層精英喜愛的服飾。到了帝國后期，托加逐漸變小，但它仍然是羅馬人的民族服裝，皇帝和貴族們會穿著托加出席正式場合，參加重要活動。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">突尼卡是一種套頭衣，男女均可穿。一般是用兩片毛織物在身體兩側(cè)和肩部縫合而成，留有領(lǐng)口和袖口，通常會在腰部系帶，形成漂亮的衣褶，但在室內(nèi)穿時則不用系帶。若在公共場合，會把系帶換成腰帶，腰帶上有錢包，用來裝錢或貴重物品。古羅馬男子通常穿長至膝的短袖突尼卡，女子則穿長至腳踝的長袖突尼卡。在衣料上，男子的突尼卡多用羊毛織物，而女子的則用亞麻布。隨著絲綢的傳入，到帝國時期，上層羅馬人開始用絲綢做面料，并織有金線、繪有刺繡。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">斯托拉是一種女式外套，模仿自<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">古希臘服裝</a></span>希頓的女服，為古羅馬已婚婦女及有羅馬公民權(quán)的女子所穿。斯托拉通常用兩塊布料做成，在肩臂處用別針固定，在頸部留有開口。斯托拉的前后布料都比較寬，款式分有袖和無袖，有袖的斯托拉袖子一般會長及肘部。斯托拉通常穿在突尼卡的外面，長及腳踝。<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">羅馬婦女</a></span> </p><p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">所穿的斯托拉的顏色相對較多，有紅、黃、藍(lán)、紫等顏色。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">帕拉是一種模仿古希臘服飾?，斏甑呐酵庖?，是一塊長方形麻織物或毛織物，看起來像是外出時穿著的巨大披巾。帕拉通常被穿在突尼卡或斯托拉的外面。公元2世紀(jì)時，已有兼作面紗的穿戴方法。在寒冷的天氣，婦女們會穿毛織物做成的帕拉；天氣暖和時，則穿著用亞麻、棉花或絲綢等比較薄的布料做成的帕拉。帕拉的色彩如同斯托拉，也有紅、黃、藍(lán)、紫等顏色。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">右肩系斗篷是一種從北歐地區(qū)引入的實用性較強的服飾，主要作用是防寒。下擺呈圓形，衣長略長于腰際線，多由短毛織物制成。古羅馬人通常將其穿在托加外，穿時在右肩或前胸用別針固定，手臂可以自由地伸展。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">帶帽大氅是一種有帽子的大披風(fēng)，類似于今天的套頭式簡易雨披，通常用來防寒、擋雨或旅行時穿用。帶帽大氅的樣式有幾種，半圓、圓形和橢圓。帶帽大氅多用兩塊或多塊縫合起來的織物做成，如毛織物或動物皮革。中間留有一個開口，多為無袖。但也見有袖的帶帽大氅，多用扣子或別針固定在肩膀或前胸。帶帽大氅的實用性，使其不僅成為駐扎帝國北部邊境士兵的軍需品，也被基督教的僧侶所采用，后來成為一種禮服。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">古羅馬人的服裝在某種程度上可以作為一種文化符號，有其特定的象征意義和社會功能。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">首先，它是古羅馬人身份地位的象征。古羅馬往往會通過對穿著者資格的規(guī)定和不同裝飾類型衣服的創(chuàng)造，把羅馬人與外族人、公民與非公民、貴族與平民、自由人與奴隸、高貴者與低賤者等不同身份的人在外表上區(qū)分開來。如古羅馬托加被賦予了社會性的象征意義，從托加的樣式、質(zhì)料、顏色和裝飾就能明顯地判斷出穿著者的身份、地位、等級和職業(yè)。托加有不同樣式，而只有上等階層的人才可以穿用上等毛料以及絲綢做成的托加，勞動者所穿的托加通常是用比較粗糙、顏色比較暗的毛料或者麻織物做成的。顏色在古羅馬服飾中也占有重要地位。普通成年公民所穿的托加是簡樸而沒有裝飾的，是天然毛料的顏色；平民的服色多為深灰、淺灰或褐色；參加選舉的候選人穿著純白色的托加袍，以引人注目；古羅馬貴族、執(zhí)政官、皇帝、將軍等有很高社會地位的人所穿的托加喜愛以紫色作為服色（<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">拉丁文</a></span> </p><p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">purpura有學(xué)者翻譯為紫色，也有學(xué)者翻譯為猩紅色）。對羅馬人來說，紫色意味著誘惑和財富，象征著高貴和權(quán)力。紫色顏料通常來源于著名的推羅紫，提取自地中海的一種水生貝類，價格十分昂貴，只有富有的人才穿得起。奧古斯都十分關(guān)注羅馬人的服飾。他規(guī)定，只有公民可以穿托加，并要求公民在廣場必須穿托加，不允許任何人穿著深色的斗篷坐在劇場里。這些有關(guān)服飾的規(guī)定成為其維護羅馬等級制度和加強社會控制的一種手段。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">不過，古羅馬人的社會地位是可以流動的。與其法律地位不同，羅馬人的社會地位比較模糊，更加容易變化。古羅馬被釋放的奴隸有資格穿上托加，這是對其新身份的肯定。被釋奴雖然在法律上的地位仍然比較低，但他們中間不少人試圖通過身穿華麗的服裝來展示自己的財富，提升自己的社會地位。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">其次，它也是表現(xiàn)社會<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">性別角色</a></span> </p><p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">與關(guān)系的符號?！吧鐣詣e”概念指的是社會文化中對男女兩性差異和行為特征的理解。古羅馬人的服裝表達(dá)了他們對性別角色的期望，也體現(xiàn)了古羅馬社會的性別關(guān)系。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">按照羅馬人的傳統(tǒng)道德觀念，男人應(yīng)該是強壯威武的，富有男子氣概。在他們看來，托加是男子氣概、公民權(quán)、公民職責(zé)和流傳下來的價值觀的象征。當(dāng)羅馬公民出現(xiàn)在廣場、法庭、賽場等公共場所時，都要穿著托加。男子氣概對羅馬男子來說非常重要，如果一個男子沒有男子氣概，他就會受到公眾輿論的譴責(zé)；如果一個男子穿著女子的衣服，他會喪失向公眾演說的資格。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">婦女們的衣著也要符合傳統(tǒng)道德的要求，符合其謙遜、順從的性別角色。古羅馬通奸法通過突出女性穿托加與丑行的聯(lián)系，以及斯托拉與受人尊敬女性之間的聯(lián)系強化了人們對婦女性別角色的期望。奧古斯都時期，女性穿著深色托加就意味著她們是妓女或者奸婦，這標(biāo)志著她們沒能履行自己的女性角色，是一種公開的譴責(zé)。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">在古羅馬，婦女最有價值的角色是家庭主婦。在古羅馬人看來，主婦應(yīng)當(dāng)是一個貞潔的、承擔(dān)起養(yǎng)育子女和照顧家庭職責(zé)的妻子，并能用其謙遜的良好形象而成為她的孩子們的榜樣。斯托拉象征著主婦所具有的理想品德，它被限定只有令人尊敬的婦女才能穿，朱里亞法明確禁止妓女穿斯托拉。古羅馬的婦女外出時，會用帕拉遮蓋住自己的身體和頭部，以免引起他人注意。同時，帕拉也是丈夫?qū)ζ拮訖?quán)威的一種象征，因為如果一位已婚婦女外出時忘記穿帕拉，這就意味著她自己“退出”了婚姻，她的丈夫可以此為理由與其離婚。由此可見，服裝不僅反映了羅馬男權(quán)社會的本質(zhì)，也表達(dá)出<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">羅馬法</a></span> </p><p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">律對受人尊敬的婦女的保護和對妓女的排斥。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">總之，作為一種象征符號，服裝在古羅馬社會中具有建構(gòu)身份等級和性別角色等方面的文化含義。此外，古羅馬服裝樣式的變化，是多種文化相互融合的一種外在表現(xiàn)，反映出<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">古羅馬文化</a></span>是在拉丁文化、伊特魯里亞文化和<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">希臘文化</a></span>等相互影響與交融下形成與發(fā)展的特點。</p> <p style="font-size: 18px; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 30px;">來源：<span style="color: green;"><a style="color: red;">中國科學(xué)社</a></span>會網(wǎng)</p> </span></div> </p> </div> <div id="y6n1ghw" class="copynotice"> <div data-qrurl="http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/?id=50900" class="tpureqr"></div> <div id="o2rkof2" class="copynoticetxt"> <p>掃描二維碼推送至手機訪問。</p><p>版權(quán)聲明：本文由<strong>財神資訊-領(lǐng)先的體育資訊互動媒體轉(zhuǎn)載發(fā)布</strong>，如需刪除請聯(lián)系。</p> <p>本文鏈接：<a href="http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/?id=50900">http://thecityplacetownhomes.com/?id=50900</a></p> </div> </div> <div id="s7wo4ck" class="sharebox"> <div id="qwgvzdu" class="label">分享給朋友：</div> <div id="qtqrlgk" class="sharebtn"> <div id="ur9ijn0" class="sharing" data-initialized="true"> <a href="#" class="share-icon icon-weibo">微博</a> <a href="#" class="share-icon icon-qq">QQ</a> 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